How-To: Trail Master Stealth Long-Arm, Jeep JK Suspension System


Long-arm suspension systems have been popular with Jeep owners seeking the ultimate in traction, articulation and ground clearance. While most Jeeps outfitted with this kind of suspension aren’t intended for daily street driving, Trail Master Suspension came up with a unique design that delivers both extreme off-road performance, with a smooth and predictable ride when the vehicle is driven on the street.

Trail Master’s Stealth Long Arm Suspension System fits ’07-’12 model Jeep JK Wranglers, and features new front radius arms that tuck evenly with the vehicle’s cross member, making them less prone to trail abuse. The system incorporates a heavy-duty front track-bar relocation bracket, and a drop Pitman arm, to provide proper steering geometry. Providing 4.5 inches of lift, Trail Master’s Stealth Long Arm Suspension, uses two-inch diameter, .250-wall DOM steel tubing with Flex-Joint bushings, and comes with new coil springs, a rear axle coil spring perch, Kevlar-lined front and rear steel braided brake lines, heavy-duty hardware.

Trail Master’s Stealth Long-Arm suspension (PN J4618Fox), comes with heady-duty control arms, coil springs, precision laser-cut brackets and Fox Racing reservoir shocks specifically tuned for this application.

Several versions of the system are available to best suit the needs of Jeep owners. Part number J4618-Fox, includes a set of Fox racing reservoir shocks that are custom tuned for this suspension, and is available for both 2wd and 4wd Jeep JK Wranglers. Part number J4618SSV, includes Trail Master’s SSV shocks, that automatically adjust to dampen the ride according to the type of terrain. Part number J4618UPG allows Jeep Wrangler owners with Trail Master’s Jeep 4.5-inch suspension systems (PN J4615 and J4616) to easily upgrade to the Stealth Long-Arm kit. In all of these kits, the factory Rzeppa style driveshafts must be converted over to a heavy-duty double Cardin style driveshafts to create a more reliable system.

While the installation of the Stealtlh long-arm system is a little more complicated than a standard lift kit, the benefits are well worth the effort for the serious Jeep enthusiast. An experienced installer like Louie Morosan at The Custom Truck Shop in San Dimas, California, demonstrated installation of the Trail Master system on a stock 2012 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited with stock axles. Following the installation instructions, Morosan cut the factory control arm mounts and bolted on the new ones provided in the kit. He also welded on new coil spring perches and an axle truss to the factory rear axle housing. This can be done with the axle still mounted in the Jeep, but Morosan preferred to remove it to have more work space. Once the axle was reinstalled Morosan added the heavy-duty coil springs, Kevlar lined steel braided brake hose, and all the appropriate hardware that’s supplied in the kit. The finishing touch was the addition of the Fox Racing reservoir shocks.

Morosan also upgraded the Jeep with new double Cardin front and rear driveshafts. The Jeep was also outfitted with a set of 37-inch tall Toyo Open Country M/T tires that would later require upgrading the rear axle gears to 4:11 or 4:30:1 with heavy-duty lockers, depending on how serious the Jeep owner wanted to get with his vehicle. While the articulation was greatly improved to climb over large obstacles, the Jeep also had a smooth highway ride was perhaps the most impressive part of how this system performs. The system took about 8-10 hours to install and includes some necessary cutting and welding. But the difference in overall performance and ride will leave any Jeep owner with the ability to enjoy the road trip to the outdoors, and take on the most extreme obstacles with confidence. For more information, contact Trail Master Suspension, P.O. Box 3450, Chino Valley, AZ 86323, 928 636-7080, www.trailmastersuspension.com. Installation was done by Custom Truck Shop, 846 W Cienega Ave., San Dimas, CA 91773, 909.599.2228, www.customtruckshop.com.

Produced by DS Media Relations

Installation Overview 
This stock Jeep owned by Volant Performance was outfitted with the company’s cold air intake and snorkel. But it needed a serious suspension system and the company opted for the Trail Master Stealth Long-Arm Kit.
The Jeep was taken to The Custom Shop in San Dimas, California, where Louis Morosan began the installation by removing the factory control arm mounts from the frame with a Sawsall.
The Stealth kit comes with new front mounts that are bolted into position on the frame and will add a more rigid mounting point for the larger and thicker control arms.
Aluminum bump stop extensions are added to the coil spring mounts.
Here  you can see the difference between the Trail Master two-inch diameter, 250-wall DOM steel tubing with Flex-Joint bushings, compared to the factory upper control arm.
The 4.5-inches of lift comes from the heavy-duty, American steel coil springs that are included with the system.
Instead of upper control arms that attach to the frame, Trail Master decided to use radius arms up front that provide better axle control with better articulation and reliability.
A new center cross member is added that supports the upper axle control arm mount.
With any lifted Jeep, the longer the coil springs, the more likely they are to arch and bend under extreme articulation. To prevent this Trail Master supplies new spring perches that must be welded onto the factory rear axle.
In order to keep the geometry of the track bar intact, Trail Master uses this new track bar mount that repositions it.
From the underside, you can see how the front control arms are nearly parallel to the frame and tuck away nicely to prevent them from making contact with rock when traveling over extreme obstacles.
The rear axle is also strengthened with a weld-on axle truss that’s shown here after the system was completely installed. Note the Fox Racing shocks that came included with this kit.
Louis Morosan at the Custom Shop completed the installation in about 10 hours and provided the Volant Jeep with new front and rear double Cardin driveshafts. Once lifted, a set of 37-inch Toyo Open Country M/T tires were added.

How To Run Bigger Tires On Your 2012 Ford F-150 For Less


Installing Performance Accessories’ Premium Lift System

 

 

Text and Photos By DS Media Relations

Lifting your ’09 to 2012 model Ford F-150 to accommodate larger 35-inch wheels and tires doesn’t necessarily require a full suspension lift anymore. Performance Accessories came up with a body-lift and leveling kit combination they call a Premium Lift System, to raise the vehicle five-inches, without the need for new A-arms, coil springs, lift spindles, or other major components associated with a full-suspension lift.

At a cost less than $840, the Premium Lift system for the Ford F-150 is definitely more economical. But the fact that it doesn’t affect the factory ride, void the warranty, or alter the suspension geometry, makes it even more appealing to many truck enthusiasts who simply want a level and lifted ride that looks great.

The kit comes with three-inch nylon reinforced body blocks, that are extrude molded under extreme pressures to create the perfect material for absorbing road vibrations, as well as maintaining an incredibly strong, reliable connection between the vehicle’s body and frame. Also included is an aluminum upper coil spring mount spacer and a polyurethane coil spring spacer to split the amount of lift in the front. This method is preferred over a single two-inch spacer, as it prevents excessive spring pre-load that can cause a harsh ride, and inhibit the spring’s ability to properly oscillate. This technique also limits the overall length of the coil/shock assembly to keep ball-joint angles within their proper operating range, and eliminates the chance of contact with A-arms or other components when the suspension is under full compression or droop.

Because there’s a greater gap between the body and frame after the body-lift is installed, Performance Accessories also includes it’s urethane Gap Guards. These are wheel-well extensions that hide the gap, and give the truck a factory appearance. The kit also includes a high-quality CNC machined steering extension, laser-cut and black powder coated steel brackets, and heavy-duty hardware to lift the F-150 in 6-8 hours, without having to remove the vehicle’s interior to access cab-mount bolts.

Installation Procedure:  See Photos below 

Although there aren’t any modifications to the factory suspension, there are alterations to the front and rear bumper brackets, the radiator fan shroud, and the removal of the factory coil and shock assembly. Not a lot of work when compared to a full-suspension lift that requires  dropping the front differential, cutting, wheel alignment, and all of the other modifications that are typically associated with a full suspension lift.

Raising the vehicle on a lift and using a long jack stand, allows each body block to be inserted between the factory mounts and frame.  Once this was done over the entire portion of the frame, the front and rear bumpers are removed. New brackets have to be installed to raise the bumpers up from the factory location on the frame. This requires removal of the bumper mounting brackets to cut for clearance and drill for new mounting bolt holes. This is much easier if you use a plasma cutter, but a cutting wheel will also do the job.

The steering extension is installed under the dash to lengthen the steering column for the added ride height. Likewise, the factory fan shroud must also be removed to add extension brackets, allowing it to properly clear the fan.

Once all the modifications to the bumper and fan shroud are completed, the front leveling kit is added. This requires unbolting the tie-rod and spindle nuts, allowing the coil and shock unit to be removed from the suspension. There’s a trick to doing this so if you’re not experienced, you should have a mechanic do it for you. Using a coil spring compressor, the top coil mount is removed and a new urethane coil spacer is installed. The factory bolts on the top mount are exchanged for longer bolts provided in the kit. This compensates for the aluminum top coil spacer that fits over the reassembled unit before it all goes back into the vehicle.

With everything buttoned up, the F-150 is nearly five-inches taller and was outfitted with 35-inch diameter wheels and tires. The ride was exceptionally smooth, not much different than stock. Furthermore, there was no need to align the vehicle or make any other modifications to accommodate the lift. Best of all, it’s very affordable and provides the look and ride most Ford truck owners want.

Source
Performance Accessories
P.O. Box 3450
Chino Valley, AZ 86323
(928) 636-7080
www.p-a-g.net
 
For more information, watch the video:
 

 Installation Photos:

The Performance Accessories Premium Lift system PN-PLS709 comes with everything you see here, including body blocks, gap guards, steering extension, leveling kit and more. It fits 2009-2012 model Ford F-150 pickups equipped with a hitch bumper and V-8 engine.

 

The body blocks fit over the factory body mounts with the provided heavy-duty hardware. You’ll need a lift and long jack stands to raise the body and insert each one across the entire frame.          

 

New brackets (right) mount in the factory location but raise the mounting level so the bumpers fit like factory with the raised body.

 

Here you can see how the new brackets fit into the inner bumper mounts that must be removed and drilled for the new studs.

 

To make room for the added height and new bumper stud positions, the bumper mount on the frame must be trimmed, as shown in the areas in white.        

 

 

A new hole is also drilled into the frame mount to accommodate the new bracket.

 

 

Without the factory inner bumper mount in place, you can see how the new brackets raise the bumper position.

 

The lower plastic fascia on the bumpers, around the tow-hook area, are also trimmed and the frame is finished off with a black cap to improve the appearance.  

 

The F-150’s fan shroud is a two piece unit. Spacers are added to extend the bottom portion down allowing for fan clearance.

 

The rear factory bumper braces on the frame are also trimmed to accommodate the new brackets.

 

The new brackets bolt in place along with some additional bracing to offer superior strength and support between the bumper and the factory hitch.

 

When the bumpers are placed back on the vehicle it looks like nothing was changed.

 

Part of the front leveling kit includes new urethane coil spacers. Compared to the factory spacers on the right, the Performance Accessories spacers add extra lift without extra tension on the coil spring.

 

Removing the coil and spring assembly requires unbolting the spindle nut, shock bolts and tie-rod nut.

 

Using a spring compressor the top spring perch is removed.  

 

New studs will be used so the factory studs are punched out.

 

The longer studs will provide room for the small top strut spacer that provides additional height to the reassembled coil and shock unit.

 

The entire assembly is then bolted back into the factory position.

 

Urethane gap guards are installed on the factory inner fenders liners, to give the installation a factory appearance.

 

The CNC machined steering extension is a stout piece that fits under the dash of the  F-150. This ensures that the steering linkage is solid and has the proper geometry.

 

With the Premium Lift System installed, a set of 35-inch diameter tires fit nicely on the vehicle and provides added ground clearance and an aggressive look; all at an affordable cost.

 

How To Measure Vehicle Ride Height


Measuring ride height. Photo copyright Performance Accessories

Here's the proper way to measure your vehicle's ride height before attempting any leveling kit, body lift and suspension lift kit install. Photo copyright Performance Accessories.

Before lifting your vehicle with a suspension, body-lift or leveling kit, it’s important to begin by properly measuring its ride height. By doing so, you’ll be able to see and document the amount of actual lift you’ve attained. Then you can take that information and determine the correct size and diameter of wheel you can use with the vehicle’s new ride height. Here’s the proper way to measure:

1) Select a clean, dry and level surface to take the vehicle’s ride height measurements
2) Drive the vehicle forward at least 10-feet onto the level surface to settle the suspension. 
3) Park the vehicle and wedge or block to secure the tires so that the vehicle will not roll forward or back.
4) Take a measuring tape and measure the ride height from the center of the axle or hug, straight up (vertical) to the bottom of the fender lip. 
5) Repeat the process for all four sides and record the measurements. 

Once this is done, you’ve recorded the proper ride height measurement of your truck, SUV or Jeep. After you’re lift has been installed, take these measurements again and see the total amount of actual ride height you’ve gained.
By DS Media Relations

How To Use A Coil Spring Compressor Tool


Many of Performance Accessories Premium Lift Systems require removing the factory coil spring from the vehicle’s strut assembly. The only way to accomplish this correctly, is to use a coil spring compressor tool. These tools are readily available, but can be dangerous if not used properly. There are basically two types of coil spring compressor tools; internal and external. Internal tools grab the coil spring from inside the coil. External tools grab the coil spring from two or three positions on the outside of the coil spring. On most late-model trucks, you’ll need to use an external tool as the bottom of the coil will sit on a mount that’s welded to the strut.
Compressing the coil spring can store lots of energy, that if released quickly, can be dangerous and cause injury. So careful precautions should be made if you attempt to remove the coil spring from any vehicle. Here are some basic safety tips when using a coil spring compressor tool.

1) If you’ve never used a coil spring compressor before, it might be a good idea to take your vehicle’s strut assembly to someone with more experience. Many repair shops have this tool and will remove the coil spring for free, or at a very modest cost.
2) If you have access to a coil spring compressor tool, make sure it’s in good working condition. Check the spring hooks to see that they are not overly worn and check the threads on the tool to ensure that they are not bent, overly rusted or damaged.
3) Before installing the tool and removing the coil spring, draw a mark starting from the top bolt plate, then on to the coil spring and finally onto the strut assembly. This will ensure that when you reinstall the coil spring all of the parts can be easily lined up correctly.
4) When releasing the tension of the coil spring from the coil spring compressor tool, do it slowly and evenly on both sides of the tool.
5) Make sure to completely read the instructions provided in  your Performance Accessories Premium Lift System or Leveling Kit before disassembling anything on the vehicle.
By DS Media Relations

Many automotive shops will have a bench mounted coil spring compressor that makes the job much safer and easier if you don’t have access to a tool or have any experience working with one.

Selecting The Right Lift Kit Height For Your Truck Or SUV


Trail Master Ford F-250 4WD

Raising the ride height of your truck or SUV offers some unique advantages that include more ground clearance, larger diameter tires and most importantly, better off-road capabilities. But truck and SUV owners have different reasons why they need some kind of lift kit. For example, some just want the off-road appearance, while others need better performance on and off the trail.

To say the least, the variety of lift kits used to raise your vehicle are numerous, and can make choosing the right system confusing. Here’s a list of the most popular methods from basic leveling kits to full suspension lift kits, that describes how much lift is achieved, how each system affects the vehicle, and the overall results and costs.

LEVELING KITS:
Amount Of Lift:
1 to 2-inches front only.
Best For:
Increasing tire diameter by one or two sizes over the OEM tire size. Appearance. Improved towing & load capacity. Improved off-road traction.

How They Work:  Leveling kits typically raise the front of the vehicle to level out the stance from the front to the rear. Vehicles using a coil/strut assembly will use a leveling kit consisting of coil spring spacers or top strut spacers. Vehicles with torsion bar suspensions such as 4wd HD trucks will use new forged torsion bar keys. Trucks and SUV’s with solid front axles will use a leveling kit that contains leaf spring blocks or an add-a-leaf spring.

Leveling kits allow the truck to run slightly larger diameter tires. Many larger diameter tires can have better sidewall construction to carry heavier loads than factory tires. Furthermore, larger diameter tires with an all-terrain or mud-terrain tread, can provide much better traction in snow, mud and off-road conditions. Some people just don’t like the look of the rear of the truck sticking up higher than the front. So for purely aesthetic reasons, leveling kits are a popular way to solve this.

Leveling kits can be installed by a seasoned home mechanic, but they will require a coil spring compressor tool, heavy duty jackstands and a heavy duty jack. Typically leveling kits cost anywhere from $30 to $200 depending on the vehicle make, and amount of parts necessary to raise the vehicle.

BODY LIFTS:
Amount Of Lift:
1.5 to 3- inches front and rear.
Best For:
Raising the vehicle without affecting the factory ride. Gaining additional ground clearance. Increasing the tire diameter by two or three sizes over the OEM tire size. Improved off-road appearance and traction (with larger off road tires).

How They Work: Body lifts raise only the vehicle’s body over the factory frame. The suspension remains completely stock so that the ride, and even the factory warranty, is not affected. Body lifts are completely safe when installed correctly and when brand-name kits are used that include nylon-reinforced polyurethane body blocks, heavy duty hardware, CNC machined steering extensions and high-grade steel bumper brackets. Some kits also offer urethane wheel well extensions that hide the space visible between the body and frame after a body lift has been installed. Most trucks with a three-inch body lift can run 33-inch diameter off-road tires, which could allow the vehicle to also gain one to 1.5-inches of extra ground clearance.

Body lifts are simple to install, but take 8-10 hours. Each body block is installed along the body mounts of the vehicle, and some cutting or trimming of brackets are required to accommodate the repositioning of the bumpers with the new bumper brackets. Look for kits that come complete with everything needed, and make sure they include a high-quality steering extension.  Depending on the amount of lift, and the vehicle make, model and year, body lifts can range in price from $120 to $650.

PREMIUM LIFT SYSTEMS
Amount Of Lift:
4 to 5.5 inches front and rear.
Best For:
Adding larger diameter tires up to 35-inches. Achieving the height of a full-suspension lift at a fraction of the cost. Raising the vehicle ride height without affecting the factory suspension or making modifications. Additional ground clearance of up to 2-2.5 inches. Attaining an off road appearance with aggressive mud terrain tires.

How They Work:Premium Lift Kits are currently only available from Performance Accessories. They combine a leveling kit with a body lift to achieve up to 5.5-inches of lift. They offer the same advantages of both types of lifts but are primarily for individuals who want the ride height and ground clearance that comes with using 33-35 inch diameter, all-terrain or mud-terrain tires.

Furthermore, unlike a full-suspension system, there aren’t any issues with factory warranties. The body lift portion of this type of kit is simple to install, but takes about 8-10 hours. Each body block is installed along the body mounts of the vehicle and some cutting or trimming of brackets are required to accommodate the repositioning of the bumpers with the new bumper brackets. What’s great about this system is that it comes with urethane wheel-well extensions called Gap Guards. These fit into the wheel wells to hide the visible gap between the body and frame. The leveling kit portion is also easy to install but you will need a coil spring compressor tool to do the job. There’s a lot of stuff to install with this kit so if you’re not sure, have a professional do it for you. Premium Lift Systems range in price from about $220 to $800, depending on the year, make and model vehicle they’re designed for.

FULL SUSPENSION LIFT KITS
Amount Of Lift:
4 to 6-inches front and rear.
Best For:
Achieving maximum traction and suspension articulation for off-road use. Adding larger diameter all-terrain or mud-terrain tires up to 35-inches (37-inches on some Jeep applications). Additional ground clearance of up to 2-3.5 inches. Attaining an aggressive off road appearance with out sacrificing reliability and comfort during regular street driving.

How They Work: Full-suspension systems can replace some factory components, such as A-arms, front spindles, rear control arms and more, depending on the vehicle. They actually lower the suspension on the chassis so that there’s more room for up and down wheel travel. Once larger diameter tires are installed the ride height is raised and with the additional travel, greater traction is achieved while maneuvering over rocks and steep terrain. Many full-suspension lift kits come with heavy-duty tubular control arms, beefy bushings, longer anti-sway bar end links and more. Some kits are less expensive than others because they have fewer components that you still need to purchase separately.

The best kits come complete with shocks, high-quality steel-braided brake hose, and all the hardware necessary to do the job. These lift kits can be difficult to install and almost always need a vehicle alignment once they are complete. So it should be installed by an experienced mechanic. Look for kits using Flex-joints, rather than all urethane bushings and/or Heim-joints. Flex-joints are the newest technology that are rigid enough to prevent over-flexing or tearing, common on urethane bushings, but are more forgiving and less noisy than Heim-joints, and can also be rebuilt. So they last longer and offer more reliable service. Full suspension systems run anywhere from $1500 for most trucks and SUV’s to $4000 for some Jeeps, in which the kits include new driveshafts to replace weaker factory units, and high-performance FOX Racing shocks.

For more information on any leveling kit, body lift, Premium Lift System or full-suspension lift, contact Performance Automotive Group, at www.p-a-g.net.
By DS Media Relations

Installing OR-Fab Gecko Skin quarter body armor for Jeep Wranglers


For serious Jeep owners who love to rock crawl, front-end and body protection is a must. While bumpers and rock sliders provide lots of protection, there are instances where the rear quarter panels can get banged up on narrow passes. It’s for this reason that OR-Fab designed new, rear quarter body armor that fits 2007-’12, Jeep JK Wranglers. It’s manufactured from laser-cut 10-gauge steel, and provides excellent protection while also enhancing the vehicle’s appearance.

The quarter armor installs by simply using it as a template to mark and drill the holes on the vehicle. OR-Fab also suggests using its synthetic liner (an added option), between the armor and the Jeep’s body, to further protect the area from small particles of dirt and moisture. OR-Fab provides nutserts in the kit that are used to secure the bolts to the Jeep’s sheetmetal. They also provide a nutsert tool that properly crimps the nutserts to secure them into position.

The liner and body armor is then placed into position and the stainless steel bolts that are provided in the kit are inserted. The LED taillights tie into the factory wiring harness using crimp wire connectors and a resistor that allows the LED lights to flash correctly with the vehicle’s turn signal indicator.OR-Fab’s rear quarter armor comes in a complete kit that includes LED taillights, stainless steel button-head bolts and a rivet-nut tool. Jeep owners wanting the most protection, can use the OR-Fab rear quarter body armor that is equipped with a 1.5-inch diameter, .120 wall steel rock-slider tube. The armor is also available without the rock slider and in a raw steel version that allows the owner to install their own LED taillights. The OR-Fab armor also fits on Jeep s with aftermarket fenders, as well as with OR-Fab’s spare tire carrier systems. For more information, visit www.orfab.com
By DS Media Relations

Installation by: 
Rebel Off Road
20602 Pascal Way. Suite B
Lake Forest, CA 92630
866-900-8841
www.rebeloffroad.com

 

OR-Fab’s quarter armor kit comes with everything you need to install. It can be ordered with or without the rock slider bar and without the taillight cut-outs.
Remove the taillights, gas filler cap molding and the fenders.
Use the quarter armor as a template to mark and dill the holes. Tape was used to properly position the armor while the holes were marked onto the sheetmetal.
OR-Fab supplies a nutsert tool that makes it easy to install the nutserts into the sheetmetal.
The tool easily crimps the nutsert to secure it to the factory sheetmetal.
Bolt the LED taillights onto the quarter armor before installing it.
The directions indicate which wires to connect the LED light pigtails to. This must be done prior to installing the armor over the Jeep.
Install the OR-Fab quarter armor liner (sold separately) and the armor. Stainless steel button head bolts are included to secure the armor to the Jeep.
With the fenders and gas filler cap molding on, the Jeep looks great and is protected against trail damage.

 

How To Add A Body-Lift And Leveling Kit To A Jeep JK Wrangler


For decades, body lifts and leveling kits have helped many off road enthusiasts raise their vehicles to gain just enough fender space for larger tires, or to add a few inches to their aftermarket suspension lift for additional ground clearance. In the case of the Jeep JK, a two inch body-lift with a 1.75-inch leveling kit on a 2007-’2010 models, will clear 35-inch tall tires. This can instantly give you the traction and higher ground clearance to tackle more difficult obstacles, and maintain the factory suspension for a smooth ride on the street.

But instead of trying to find all the components yourself, Performance Accessories, a company who has been manufacturing body lift kits for more than 25 years, created a Premium Lift System has all the components you’ll need to lift your Jeep JK at a relatively low cost, typically under $220. The Premium Lift System #PLS990, comes with a two-inch body-lift that consists of reinforced nylon body blocks, and high-grade hardware. It also includes two 1.75-inch polyurethane coil-spring spacers, a CNC machined steering extension and urethane Gap Guards to cover the space that’s visible through the wheel wells.

According to Performance Accessories, installing this complete system takes about 6-8 hours. The body lift is installed with the vehicle sitting level on jackstands or a hydraulic lift. Then, each of the Jeep’s factory body mount bolts are loosened. Using a floor jack, the body can be lifted at each point on the frame where the body mount is located. A few inches is all that is necessary to slip in the two-inch body blocks in place and secure it with heavy-duty hardware that’s provided in the kit.

This procedure is done around the entire perimeter of the Jeep; taking about two or three hours to complete. The front two mounts, those closest to the front radiator and grille, are slightly different than the rest. Installing the front mounts requires removing the top radiator core cover and pulling out the front factory grille. This exposes the two front body mounts which are loosened so that the body can be lifted and the new mounts put in place.

You can see the amount of clearance the two-inch body-lift
and coil spring spacer kit did to this Jeep
Once everything is bolted securely, and the Jeep is back on the ground, you can see the extra clearance available for your larger tires. The polyurethane coil-spring spacers fit in the factory coil-over shock assembly to level out the front-to-rear ride height. We highly recommend taking your vehicle to a mechanic with a proper spring compression tool to add the leveling spacer to the top of the coil mount. This too is an inexpensive addition to this project that’s well worth the effort.

Because the frame is lifted two inches higher, the factory steering is lengthened slightly with the heavy-duty, CNC machined extension supplied in the kit. This securely attaches the upper and lower steering shafts to maintain the correct geometry and length.

The pre-molded urethane inner fender covers, Gap Guards, seal up the added space between the body and the frame. The Performance Accessories Gap Guards are simply positioned in place so that the holes in the guards can be used as a template for drilling into the factory plastic inner fenders. Then plastic snap buttons are provided to secure them into position.

With the installation complete, a set of 35-inch BFG Mud-Terrain T/A’s on a set of Poison Spyder wheels were added to this Jeep JK. A lift such as this one retails for under $220 and gave this JK added ground clearance and traction that can allow this otherwise stock vehicle, the capabilities of hanging out with a more experienced crowd.
DS Media

Installation Procedure

By supporting the frame with a lift or jack stands,
the factory body mount bolts are loosened.
To access the body mounts at the front of the vehicle,
the front grille needs to be removed.
Using a hydraulic jack on a sturdy part of the body,
you can raise it slightly to remove the factory mounts
and replace it with the two-inch mount as shown.
Lower the body back on the new mounts and install the
longer hardware as shown here.
This same procedure is done to all of the 12 body mount
points along the frame.
Since the body is now two inches higher over the frame,
a steering joint extension is used to connect the steering shaft.
This is a heavy duty unit that easily attaches the two sections
of the steering shaft firmly in place
The front shock assembly is removed and the coil-spring spacers
are installed on top of the coil spring using a spring
compressor to remove the top coil mount from the assembly.
Installing the Gap Guards simply require drilling holes in the
factory plastic fenders and snapping them in place with
plastic push-in rivets.
Once the Jeep was back on the ground, we slipped on a pair of
35-inch BFG Mud Terrains mounted on a set of Poison Spyder
aluminum wheels. The end result was some much added ground
clearance and enough traction to handle difficult trails

How To Install An OR-Fab Rear Sheet-Metal Bumper For A Jeep JK Wrangler


Jeep owners who like to take on more difficult terrain often find that they need greater protection. One of the basics forms of protection for any serious rock crawling Jeep is a sturdy rear bumper. A solid rear bumper helps to absorb impacts on rocks and ledges with high departure angles, while also protecting the vehicle’s body.

Typical rock-slider style rear bumpers are made from heavy-wall tubing, but even under severe conditions, they can bend and break. So many JK Wrangler owners, prefer a sheet-metal style bumper that offers superior strength and allows the vehicle to easily slide off rocks.

OR-Fab makes a heavy-duty sheet metal rear bumper for the ’07-2010 Jeep Wrangler JK (2dr and 4dr) that is easy to install, looks great and offers superior protection. The bumper is made in the U.S.A. and is manufactured from 3/16-inch thick steel plate on its outer shell. The mounting brackets are made from1/2-inch thick steel plate. In addition, the bumper also extends to protect the quarter panels and features a tapered design, allowing it to slide off of rocks and ledges with minimal effort. Two D-ring mounts and D-ring shackles are also included, and the bumper comes in either a durable wrinkle black or gloss (bicycle) black, powder coated finish.

To install the bumper, you start by taking a 16mm socket wrench and removing the inner mounting brackets that connect to the rear cross member and the two bolts on the bumper’s outer mounts, located near the Jeep’s frame rails. You will also need to loosen the tow hitch bolts with a 18mm socket wrench that secures the tow hitch to the rear cross member.

Have a buddy help you remove the factory bumper as it is heavy, and insert the OR-Fab sandwich braces that fit inside the frame rail to secure the new bumper. Your friend can help you support the OR-Fab bumper into position as you insert the provided hardware in place. It’s a good idea to keep the bolts loose while you finish the installation that includes a tow hitch support bracket that attaches to the tow hitch bolts and bumper.

Once all the bolts are in place and the bumper is lined up, everything can be tightened. The bumper gives the Jeep JK a great new appearance over the factory bumper and is an incredibly solid unit that will offer some of the best protection you can get for your vehicle. Check out the overview of the installation below or download a copy of the installation instructions HERE. For more information, visit http://www.orfab.com/
Text and Photos By DS Media

Installation Procedure OR-Fab Bumper #83208 (Jeep JK Wranger 2-4Dr):

First remove the two bolts from the brackets located on the back side of the bumper

Remove the bolts that secure the bumper to the cross member and the frame rails. You’ll need a friend to help you hold the bumper as you remove it.

OR-Fab provides new sandwich braces that fit inside the frame rails for the mounting hardware that secures the new bumper to the frame.

You’ll need a friend to help you support the OR-Fab sheet metal bumper while you insert the bolts to hold it in place.

Here you can see how the bumper bolts secure the OR-Fab bumper to the frame rails. The half circle hole on the side is a bottle cap opener.

The two factory bolt locations are also used to secure the OR-Fab mounts to the frame.

The center brace bolts to the rear cross member behind the factory tow hitch.

As you can see, the bumper also protects the rear quarter panels and the tapered design makes it easily slide off or rocks and ledges.

How To Install OR-Fab Rocker Side Armor On A Jeep JK Wrangler


Drilling holes into your Jeep’s sheet metal is always a little intimidating, but essential to installing OR-Fab’s Rocker Side Armor for the Jeep Wrangler JK. Fortunately the company’s new Tech Tip video can offer some visual help in measuring, and the proper use the OR-Fab Rocker Side Armor as a template to mark and drill your holes. The kit also comes with a rivet-nut tool that installs the nuts into some of the holes, where it’s difficult to insert a standard bolt behind the sheet metal. Chris Faustmann of Performance Automotive Group demonstrates how to properly use the tool, to safely and accurately insert the rivet nuts into position and make the installation of your OR-Fab Rocker Side Armor a simple task.

Watch the OR-Fab Tech Tip video below or visit the company’s YouTube Channel to see it and more of the company’s Tech Tip Videos. Click HERE to get more information on OR-Fab Rocker Side Armor for Jeeps or visit then at www.orfab.com.
DS Media

The Truth About Body-Lifts: 10 Popular Myths


When it comes to adding an inexpensive lift to your truck or sport utility vehicle, body-lifts are a popular method many use for gaining as much as three-inches of ride height. There are truck and Jeep enthusiasts however, who have heard stories and myths about the dangers of body-lifts, which usually come from someone’s experience on the trail. But not all of them have merit. We logged onto several off-road, truck and Jeep forums to collect 10 of the most popular, (some are pretty crazy) reasons why some people won’t use a body lift, and got real answers from the experts at Performance Accessories, the leading body lift manufacturer in the industry.

Myth #1: Brake Lines Not Long Enough:
In all applications the factory rubber brake lines are not affected by a body-lift. According to Chris Faustmann, R&D at Performance Accessories, the hard lines on the frame connecting to the master cylinder are usually coiled and have more than enough length to accommodate three inches. Some give you two or three extra feet! This is done to avoid any vibration problems that can occur with a straight brake line. On areas such as the rear differential, where the rubber hose attaches to the steel lines on the axle, some kits may provide a longer bracket to help support the existing brake line but a longer hose isn’t necessary. 

Most of the problems associated with this myth occur when off-road enthusiasts combine a body-lift with a full suspension kit. Some people opt for an inexpensive suspension kit and stretch the lines. Later, they want more height so they add a body-lift and suddenly find out the brake lines aren’t long enough. Whatever you choose, make sure that the kit comes complete with everything you need to do the installation correctly. High quality kits like those from Trail Master, provide a longer, Kevlar reinforced steel-braided line that’s included in the system.

Myth#2: Gas Filler Tubes Are Hard To Replace:
This can be true for some body-lift kits that don’t include a new gas filler tube extension. While in most cases the factory tube is long enough, there are some models that require an extension. Some kits, like those from Performance Accessories, come with a longer gas filler tube extension that easily fits between the factory filler tube with hose clamps.

Myth#3: The Body Will Come Off The Frame In An Accident:
This sounds like one of the most ridiculous myths we’ve heard, but many people swear by it. While no-one ever claims to have seen or experienced a body separating from the frame, the truth is that it’s almost impossible to separate the two with a high quality body-lift kit. On average, there are 12-16 body mounts on most pickups and sport utility vehicles, so it would require an incredible amount of shear-force to rip the body off of the frame in a head-on or rear-end collision. According to the National Highway Safety Traffic Administration, the automobile frame must be designed to withstand the impact of a collision. Although the body of a truck or sport utility vehicle can be heavy, it won’t out weigh the frame, engine, transmission and axles which will have a greater momentum of force than the body.  In addition, vehicle crumple zones in the fenders, hood, engine compartment and ultimately the cab are designed to absorb impact which will minimize the shear-force. This also holds true on a rollover, as the doors and window frame will crumple to absorb impact, limiting the leverage it may have on the body mount bolts.

But the fact remains that people sometimes build their own body-lift kits out of aluminum or steel tubing; often greater than three inches in height. This can be very dangerous and probably added to the validity of this body-lift myth. High-quality body lift kits, like those from Performance Accessories, use rnylon reinforced, polyurethane body blocks that are extruded using extremely high pressure and temperatures to make them strong, yet more compliant and energy absorbing than steel or aluminum. High-grade hardware is also provided, including thread-locker, as an insurance measure to prevent the bolts from vibrating loose. When installed correctly, a high-quality body-lift up to three inches in height is safe to use.  

Myth #4: The Vehicle Feels Too Top Heavy:
Any vehicle that’s lifted can feel top-heavy. It depends on the type of vehicle and how high you’re going. Raising the center of gravity on any vehicle will make it top heavy, and typically depends on the vehicle. Body-lifts raise the vehicle’s cab, leaving the suspension and frame in the stock location. A suspension lift lowers the suspension so that the frame and body are both lifted higher. Both will feel the same with the stock tires on it. Once you add larger diameter tires, then you raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, which can give you an uneasy feeling.

The fact is that your decision on using either a body-lift or full-suspension will depend on the type of off-roading you will be doing. A body-lift is safe to use and will give you more fender clearance to run larger tires. If you plan on doing some serious off-roading, where you need more articulation and axle control, along with greater approach and departure angles, then a full-suspension will be a better choice.

Myth #5: Transfer Case Linkage Doesn’t Work Or Is Too Short:
This is a case of buyer beware. Older vehicles with a manual transfer case linkages will often require an extension. Budget body-lift kits often don’t include items like longer transfer case linkage or a steering column adaptor. So make sure you do your research. A good kit will include everything you need to properly lift the vehicle without any linkage problems. Performance Accessories also uses a high-quality, CNC precision machined steering extension that is checked and test fit to ensure that it works properly on the vehicle you are lifting.

Myth #6: The Body Mount Bolts Will Bend Under Severe Off-Road Use:
Let’s face it, you can bend the vehicle’s frame if you hit it hard enough, so even a high-grade body mount bolt is susceptible to bending. Just like any other metal component on your Jeep or pickup truck, they can bend if they are slid up against a rock. Remember that a body-lift block is inserted between the frame and the factory body mount. So the bolt stays in exactly the same position as it did originally. Several Jeep owners for example, have bent their body mount bolts when the vehicle slides over a rock, or if it takes a hard hit on a skid plate that’s attached to the body mount under the radiator core support. There are products, however, that can protect your body-mount bolts. Several manufacturers make skid plates that can be attached to each exposed body mount to protect them against hard hits.

Myth #7: There’s A Big Gap Visible Between The Frame And Body:
This one is also true, but again it’s buyer beware. Many people don’t like the space between the frame and body that’s left after its been lifted. The gap is simply unappealing and doesn’t look cool when you view the vehicle from the side and see open air in the wheel wells. Performance Accessories manufactures Gap Guards that are included with, or are available for, all of their body-lift and Premium Lift Systems. Gap Guards are polyurethane pieces that are easily attached to the inner fender-wells of the vehicle to cover up the gap. They also limit moisture and dirt from entering into the engine compartment and make the whole installation look great.

Myth #8: Body-lifts Limit The Air-Flow From The Radiator Fan:
This is solely dependant on the body-lift manufacturer. Some vehicles use an electric fan that’s attached to the radiator. When the body is lifted, there’s no effect on the fan and radiator cooling. On other applications, where the fan is physically raised higher in relation to the radiator, manufacturers like Performance Accessories provide a fan shroud extension that maintains the proper operation of the fan and cooling system to prevent overheating or damage to the fan.

Myth #9: Loss Of Steering Control:
Another situation where the buyer needs to beware. Without a proper steering column extension, there can be some steering issues. Poorly made steering extensions can break, wear and even fall off over time. For this reason manufacturers like Performance Accessories provides each kit with a high-quality, CNC machined steering extension. Each extension is quality checked during the machining process to ensure that it fits perfectly and provides reliable service.

Myth #10: Body-Lifts Aren’t Good For Towing: 
Body-lifts don’t affect the towing capabilities of any pickup truck or sport utility vehicle. The frame, hitch and suspension are not affected by a body-lift and the tow rating of your vehicle will remain intact. This myth started, however, when people tried to tow or pull a vehicle out from a stuck position by wrapping a tow-strap around their bumper. Bumpers are not made for handling any heavy load and a tow-strap should only be attached to a receiver hitch or tow hooks that are mounted to the vehicle’s frame. Despite this fact, Performance Accessories uses laser cut, heavy-gauge steel brackets that relocate the bumper to the factory frame.

We’ve only covered the top ten body-lift myths here, but if you have any comments, questions or suggestions for answering more of your body-lift questions, we’re happy to listen and give you a reply. For more information, visit www.p-a-g.net.
By DS Media